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Not Mayberry

Can a shy, retiring teacher from the big city find true happiness in the small town of Wilkesboro NC, which even the locals call "Moonshine Capital of the World."

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Location: Wilkesboro, North Carolina

Sunday, September 10, 2006

A Walk through North Wilkesboro...

... Friday morning bright and early ... well, for me anyway... I took my car over to David's Car Care just across the bridge over the Yadkin River in North Wilkesboro - the other half of the Twin Hamlets. From David's, which is down along the river in what I quaintly imagine is the flood zone, I crossed the street and went in Hadley's Restaurant. There was the usual hometown crowd for a week day morning - and real waitresses who see this as their long term job rather than middle class students just playing around for a year or two on the way to something better. Much better. Therefore the service is prompt, friendly, and efficient. The customers a bit older than me, retired, carrying more weight, faces and bodies molded to the demands of constant work, most of it outdoors. Some day workers without a day's work. A few like me taking time off from work. I read a New York Times Review of Books, they read local newspapers or most often, since they are all locals, chat with each other, greet anyone who comes in, and tease the waitresses. It's comfy and good.

I dawdle over my coffee and read a story about the war in Lebanon. Look out the window and see my dark green Suburu zipping around the corner of David's garage. Should it be going that fast? It's peaceful here. An ocean away from Lebanon.

Pay - I'm always careful to leave a good tip down here in Wilkes - my job is not tied to the local economy and unlike every other job in America I have guaranteed lifetime employment.

Walk around to the back and head up away from the river into North Wilkesboro. Pass the Creamery, and walk up through what is labelled "Southern Candle, Inc." I didn't know the Twin Hamlets had a candle factory. It seems to be in business. I can smell the sickly sweet odor of candle wax. Good - one more business continues. There are a couple of very serious white guys with clip boards standing in the parking lot, each with freshly pressed safari shorts. They are looking at the candle factory with gimlet eyes. Perhaps business is not as good as I thought.

I press past their enormous SUVs, cross over the railroad tracks no longer in use and take a look at the old railroad depot. For some years now we have been hearing that a local businessman is going to pour moeny into it, to rescue it from decay and turn it into a restaurant and music stage. So far it continues to set, and rot.

And that was the start of my day in Wilkes.

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